Katie Eary’s AW16 collection is madly elegant with all the sex and sleaze of 1970s downtown New York City. Without a doubt, our favourite show from January’s London Collections Men.
Eary was inspired by the documentary The Sacred Triangle (which explores the creative realationship between Iggy Pop, Lou Reed and David Bowie). ‘I was taken by Iggy Pop and Nico’s brief fling,’ she says, ‘and the idea of them swapping clothes in the process of creating music and being lovers.’
‘My design approach is exactly the same when I’m doing mens’ or womens’,’ Eary explains. ‘So, effectively, I’ve been developing my idea of gender fluidity but with a working story of rock stars, artists, playwrights and groupies.’
This collection is thus infused with all the glamour and emaciated androgyny of early seventies art rock and the outré cross-dessing garb of proto-punk bands like New York Dolls. Luxurious printed silks are teamed with metallic leather and high-shine pleather. It’s Lou Reed waiting for his man on a downtown street corner. It’s the beautiful young groupies loitering outside dressing rooms. It’s scantily clad David Johansen looking for a kiss. It’s Bowie with his snow white tan and Angie’s feather boa…
We love Katie Eary.
Wham bam thank you ma’am.